The Troll’s Pantry has been on my burger list basically since we moved to Brighton, and I’m not really sure how we managed to go so long without trying one. I like saving places until the time feels right, and lately I’ve decided that my quest for the best burger in Brighton must go on, as I’ve been unhappy with my current reigning burger and feel that in my heart of hearts, I know there is better out there (sorry MEATliquor).
As with all food, taste is an extremely personal thing, and one thing I’ve found when talking about burgers is that everyone looks for something different – thick, meaty patties or thin, juicy patties, toasted bun, squidgy brioche roll, well done, medium-rare, we all have our favourites.
We decided to go for a Troll’s Pantry burger on its final day at The Hobgoblin pub, which also fell on a Sunday and meant free double-ups 😍 I chose The Imperial, which comes with St Giles cheese, mustard, roasted tomato ketchup, pickles, lettuce and onions, and added bacon. Brandon went for The Paladin, which comes with smoked garlic mayo, vine tomatoes, lettuce and pickles, adding in St Giles cheese. We decided to share a side of fries with some garlic mayo as we were doubling up on the meat already.
I love the way they came wrapped and stickered, like little (but not really that little) suspenseful meaty parcels waiting to be opened. Brandon and I looked at each other nervously before opening our wrappers, these burgers were big and they were gonna be messy. The added suspense was a pretty neat touch for anyone new to The Troll’s Pantry, and I liked what I saw. I feel like this review is starting to teeter on the edge of a seedy romance novel, but this sums up my lust for a good burger.
I have to say this burger was everything I had hoped it would be and everything I’ve been looking for in my top Brighton burger. It’s the kind of burger that you bite into and instantly runs onto your hands, and my god is it good. The beef patties are so soft and tender, they melt in your mouth – making the beastly looking thing a lot easier to eat than it looks. The bacon is the perfect balance of juicy and crispy for me, as I’m not big on overly crispy bacon, and the melted cheese ran down to cover both beef patties. I really liked the sweetness of the roasted tomato ketchup, contrasting with the tang of mustard and refreshing bursts of pickle to create the most intense flavour festival in my mouth. All packed inside a squidgy brioche bun made it a super messy and super special burger experience.
These fries were perfect. Crispy but soft, skin-on and salty, we couldn’t stop reaching for these until the last tiny crunchy bits had been gobbled up. And the garlic mayo made a fantastic accompaniment too!
So, I’ve found my reigning burger champ… for now. I’ve still got a long list of places to work through before I can be sure of the best burger in Brighton, but The Troll’s Pantry have definitely smashed the top spot for both of us.
The Troll’s Pantry are in the process of moving to a new home and can soon be found at The Druids Arms on Ditching Road. Where do you think does the best burger in Brighton? I would love to know what you look for in a top burger!
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